Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and tourists equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, Unesco designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive group of global cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it enters a international community of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "is a testament to its centuries-old food heritage and dynamic culinary scene," as noted by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this historic city comes as hardly a shock to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the spotlight for what has always characterized its soul: an profound devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing conversation from waking up until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and elevated to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – hidden treasures that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and involved. The cook hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but say that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will inspire more people around the world to explore these tales and experience the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
